Mexico’s Wildest Golf Course is Like a Real-Life ‘Golden Tee’ Experience

Quivera Golf Club is a breathtaking Jack Nicklaus design that will leave players of all skill levels downright speechless.

“Jack Nicklaus must have been on acid when he designed this one.”

I don’t remember which of my playing partners said this as we walked off the 18th green at Quivera Golf Club, but no description of any course I have played has stuck with me like this one. In fact, I have played several of Mexico’s best and can remember bits and pieces about each, but this Cabo San Lucas experience has basically haunted me, not only for its immense, seemingly impossible challenges and downright insane views, but because it’s just so wild and otherworldly.

Thanks to those rounds on “Mexico’s Best Golf Courses,” I admit my expectations were far more in line with the country’s beautiful, meticulous resort styles that sandwich the experience between luxurious properties and exceptional coastal views. That’s partially because I was enjoying a tequila blending class at the Four Seasons Punta Mita, in between activities at the annual Punta Mita Gourmet and Golf event, when I got the call to swing by Cabo after the party was done. Having played Punta Mita’s courses, as well as neighboring Higuera Golf Club (a personal favorite) and Mayakoba’s El Camaleon, among others, I felt like I had appropriate expectations, but my friends already in Cabo assured me: “You ain’t see nothing yet.”

Two days later, I was on a Volaris flight to Cabo (unknowingly getting my first case of Montezuma’s Revenge from the ice in my treinta Starbucks cold brew), and as I uploaded my hilarious three-putt on Punta Mita’s Tail of the Whale to Instagram, I wondered, “How could anything top that?” After a bumpy landing and an immensely uncomfortable evening of cold sweats, I was ready to see what the buzz was all about.

The Madre of All First Impressions

If all you knew about Cabo San Lucas was learned from Sammy Hagar, you might think this was a destination for Endless Summer party animals. Now, I’m not saying that’s not the case, but if you’re looking for a laidback, rewarding Mexican vacation experience with smaller crowds (at least in comparison to Mexico’s biggest destinations), spectacular resorts, and amazing food, this Pacific setting will take care of your every need. It’s as great for family getaways as it is for romantic retreats, but all I cared about was understanding the buzz around Quivera Golf Club.

Heading to the range for a post-sunrise warmup, what stood out was the fact that the practice facility is right next to the beach, which isn’t exactly common. (Hell, I’m not sure I have played anywhere that offered incredible ocean views at the range, but I still have 6 million more courses to visit, so we’ll see.) As soon as we were ready to make the comically long ride to the first tee box, it became obvious that this was not your regular “resort course.” Hell, Nicklaus knew this was going to be a resort course, but ownership wanted something different, so The Golden Bear had his work cut out for him.

“The owner of the property wanted the golf course up on the side of the mountain,” explained Brian McCallen, world-famous golf writer, author of “Great Resort Courses of the World“, and expert on all things Cabo. “Jack says, ‘Well, we can’t do that.’ [The owner] goes, ‘Yeah, I want you to do that.’ So, Jack got his guys out there and they laid out four or five holes in the valley. Then you drive up the side of this mountain, 270-feet above sea level, and they’ve got the cliffside comfort station there, and in the winter months you can see breaching whales. And most people, the first time, they’re like, ‘Are you kidding me?’”

Just take a look at Hole 7 again… Are you kidding me?!

Opened in 2014, this 7,085-yard layout has been a mainstay on prominent golf rankings like “World’s Greatest 100 Courses” and my far-less read “Guide to the Best Palomas on Planet Earth.” Despite its recognition and pristine reputation, the biggest complaint you’ll likely hear about Quivera is that there’s no flow, meaning the design and holes don’t feel like they’re taking you on a journey like you’ll find on so many other courses. To that, I say, “Ah, shut up.” That’s what gives this place the Golden Tee feel that I recognized from the start, and even with longer rides between some of the holes, this is as much a celebration of Cabo’s beauty as it is a skill test for even the most confident players.

Get Your Cameras Ready

Having made the trip from Punta Mita to Cabo, I was still thinking about the former’s seaside holes and especially the signature Tail of the Whale, which is a must-play Par 3 boasting an island green that you’ll only be able to take on if the water is behaving itself. It’s certainly one of the cooler holes you’ll play anywhere in the world, so when I heard about Quivera’s wild design, this was my easiest comparison. Turns out, there really is no comparing this course to any other. As McCallen puts it: “Quivera has a spellbinding duty all its own, but it is first and foremost a challenging golf course.”

If I’m picking a favorite hole at Quivera, I could have set up shop for the day at the Par 3 14th and lost ball after ball trying to clear the intimidating canyon while also marveling at the views. Better golfers have probably hit near-perfect daggers on the wide green, but barely-average dorks like me will find equal parts joy and frustration trying to keep a ball from rolling left to right, all the way down to its salty demise. On my first swing, I was certain I’d hit it so well, only to never see that ball again. I’d be furious if I wasn’t laughing the whole time.

But the hole that most golfers will likely appreciate for boosting our numbers is the previous track, the Par 5 13th, which runs 635 yards and dares everyone to pull out the boom stick and let ‘er f*cking rip. If only it were that easy, though. Sure, the downward slope will allow your tee shot to run for days, but accuracy also plays a huge role here. If you miss the fairway, getting to the green is going to be a daunting experience, and even if you hit it square on the nuts, I still watched several very good golfers curse themselves with words that’d make old-timey sailors blush after they sacrificed strategy for long-drive bragging rights. (Bonus coolness: This hole runs above the beach where the invasion scene for Troy was filmed.)

How Do You Solve a Problem Like Quivera

Over the years, the most consistent tip I have received has been: “Know which tee box you should be playing from.” At no course that I have played has that mattered more than Quivera. Even if you fancy yourself a Bill Brasky-type legend whose friends constantly rave about your big drives, you should consider dialing it back a notch or two here and giving up the tips for a more enjoyable and manageable round. However, if you choose to take the bull by its horn, know that Nicklaus was still looking out for us by making his wild design subtly manageable.

“He built a lot of kicker slopes and containment mounds that tend to gather the ball to safety or even feed the ball to the hole,” McCallen said. “Everybody just kind of freaks out or says, you know, ‘I’m gonna call my mommy’ or ‘I need another dozen balls.’ So, we get a lot of, you know, sphincter-pinching moments, but if you move up a set of tees, you can manage the golf course. If you don’t go for the hero shot, if you play pretty safe, conservative golf, you can do okay there.”

Not to contradict my old friend’s point, but you should still probably plan to bring an extra box of balls. At the very least, you’ll be hellbent on hitting four or five at the aforementioned 14th hole — although I do not endorse you doing that (wink wink, nudge nudge). And, if all else fails, just enjoy the hell out of the palomas and margs at the comfort stations. I am not lying when I say they are the best I have had on any golf course I have visited on this planet.

When You’re Not on the Course

Before you book your tee times, obviously, you’ll need to choose a place to stay. Cabo has a lot of cool spots in town, on the beach, and up on those iconic cliffs, but the most obvious place to have your clubs shipped to is Pueblo Bonito Oceanfront Resorts and Spa. After all, Quivera was developed as an exclusive amenity for this sprawling modern property, so convenience and familiarity are nice perks here.

However, this is not simply a case of “This is where the course is, so this is where you should stay.” What blew my mind about Pueblo Bonito when I explored during my downtime is how diverse its accommodations are, and namely how there’s truly something for everyone. That’s such an eye-rolling cliche for a travel writer, but it’s true. Pacifica Golf and Spa Resort is ideal for the game- and wellness-focused visitors, while The Towers at Pacifica add an element of romance for couples and Pueblo Bonito Los Cabos will keep the entire family entertained way beyond the golf.

Many people I know who frequently visit Cabo rave about a wide range of rental options, and scoring a large home or villa is a boon to any bro or ladies’ outing, as you can all sleep under one roof and keep your expenses down by cooking and grilling your meals. There might not be a better rental option anywhere in this destination, though, than the Montecristo Estates Luxury Villas, considering these stylish multi-bedroom residences are not only set away from the busier resort amenities (for those of us who hate sharing) but they’re also so damned cool that they’ll take up as much space in your Instagram feed as the course itself.

Not that you’ll want to spend much time away from the views of Quiviera Golf Club, that is.